Stokes波的谱特性分析     

马汝建  李桂喜 《海洋工程》2001,19(4):52-57

应用理论推导及数值计算方法，对Stokes随机波的谱特性进行了分析。首先将波面方程，海水质点水平速度用一阶波面分量的非线性组合表示，应用平稳随机高阶短的降阶计算法则，得到了波面方程及海水质点水平速度与一阶波面分量的自相关函数之间的关系，从而确定了Stokes随机波浪的波浪谱密度及海水质点水平速度和加速度谱密度，进而求得有关波浪要素的均方根值。文章还应有数值计算方法，分析了波浪基本参数对均方根值的影响。  相似文献   

New Numerical Scheme for Simulation of Hyperbolic Mild-Slope Equation   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

ZHENG Yonghong 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):185-194

The original hyperbolic mild-slope equation can effectively take into account the combined effects of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection, but does not consider the nonlinear effect of waves, and the existing numerical schemes for it show some deficiencies. Based on the original hyperbolic mild-slope equation, a nonlinear dispersion relation is introduced in present paper to effectively take the nonlinear effect of waves into account and a new numerical scheme is proposed. The weakly nonlinear dispersion relation and the improved numerical scheme are applied to the simulation of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal. Numerical tests show that the improvement of the numerical scheme makes efficient the solution to the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. A comparison of numerical results with experimental data indicates that the results obtained by use of the new scheme are satisfactory.  相似文献   

Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Qiao Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(1):1-8

Ｉｎｓｔａｂｉｌｉｔｙａｎａｌｙｓｉｓｏｆｔｈｒｅｅ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌｏｃｅａｎｓｈｅａｒｗａｖｅｓ￥ＱｉａｏＦａｎｇｌｉ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＮｏｖｅｍｂｅｒ６，１９９５，ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＮｏｖｅｍｂｅｒ３０．１９９５）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：Ｂａｓｅ...  相似文献   

Pitfalls in the estimation of wind wave directional spectra by variational principles     

Jos Ochoa  Oscar E. Delgado-Gonzlez 《Applied Ocean Research》1990,12(4):180-187

  相似文献   

Wave-Current Forces on Slender Circular Cylinders   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Li Yucheng  Wang Fenglong  Kang Haigui Professor  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Senior Engineer  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Lecturer  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1991,(3)

- A series model tests of wave forces by both regular and irregular waves combined with currents on single piles and bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays have been carried out. Based on Morison Equation, linear wave theory and linear wave spectrum theory as well, the characteristics of inline, lift and resultant forces on cylinders have been analyzed respectively. The drag, inertia and lift coefficients CD, CM and CL f皉 single piles related to KC number and the grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays related to KC number are given in this paper.  相似文献   

Numerical Simulation of Multi-Directional Random Seas     

Yu Yuxiu  Liu Shuxue  Li Li Professor  Dept. of Civil Engineering  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Research Assistant  Dept. of Civil Engineering  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1991,(3)

Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.  相似文献   

Burial and scour around short cylinder under progressive shoaling waves     

S. I. Voropayev  F. Y. Testik  H. J. S. Fernando  D. L. Boyer 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(13):1647-1667

The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.  相似文献   

A semi-analytical solution for random wave-induced soil response and seabed liquefaction in marine sediments     

Haijiang Liu  Dong-Sheng Jeng   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(8-9):1211-1224

In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work.  相似文献   

稳定风浪场谱特征量间的关系          下载免费PDF全文

文凡  高志一 《海洋与湖沼》2007,38(5):394-404

风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。  相似文献   

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface     

P.K. Tonnon  L.C. van Rijn  D.J.R. Walstra 《Coastal Engineering》2007

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).  相似文献